ECHOES OF A ROAR
SAVUTI - BOTSWANA
By Jinxy
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Take note of
the giraffe well blended into the elephant drawing
The rock paintings
are one of Savuti’s historical heritages and people like this place to witness
the wit and talent the san had many years ago. Up here on the Bushman Paintings
Rock or Mosarwa as commonly called we see the drawings of elands, Elephants,
sable antelope, the African Rock Pythons and Giraffes.
This is a true
sign that shows that these species were roaming in this area and the Bushman
were hunting them probably. After a nice interpretation of the rock painting we
turned to look at the scenery of the channel and the bushes of Savuti though
many of us couldn’t help looking. What a great spot to look at this part of the
area.
At the moment the
area is still looking green from the tree tops the grass is dying from the
heat. There is a lot for the animals to eat around the fringes of the channel
for both herbivores and carnivores. There is still a balance in the ecosystem
and still so not worrying because the channel is still alive. From here the
drive was on. Everyone wanted to know how it looked on the other side of the
stream and I told my guests that there was only one way to find out; drive on
the other side. Rocksan (Game Viewer Landcruiser) was waiting and smiling.
Fifteen minutes
after leaving the rock paintings. We bumped into a dust oozing across the round
and I first it was the impalas because the rutting season is here. When I
looked on the ground I noticed the drag marks and ignored it as it was getting
into the bushes, but I was curious.
Later after
watching a huge elephant bull, not too far from where we were, something was
getting up a tree; it was a leopard hauling a porcupine up a tree. What a great
sighting. Two things were tirelessly running through my mind. A leopard is
always a sign of good luck traditionally and porcupine is a sighting is a sign
of a good day but this one was a dead porcupine but I kept my optimism to
myself.
When we got
there, the leopard was still panting for breath and I quickly noticed what was
going on. He was forced by circumstances to take his prickly meal up a tree and
wild dogs were the reason. The Dogs came running through and never bothered to
stare at the leopard in the tree and they headed off towards Harvey’s Pans. I
told my guests that it was worth following them because we can always come to
the leopard later. But we all agreed to stay with the spotted, most loved
fellow and not only that; when you see a leopard it always feels like the first
time ever, and the fact that it’s a very illusive solitary cat, it’s the best
amongst the rest, at least for this morning it was.
We watched as he
continued eating his meal, first starting with removing the quills and the dug
deeper into the exposed soft areas.
Every one of us
was amazed by this sighting. It’s not always that you can find a leopard’s
Porcupine kill and being fed on by the actual predator. It was great indeed.
About forty five minutes to an hour later we headed off for the wild dogs but
when we got there we only found tracks and couldn’t see them. I was sure that
there resting somewhere in the mopane
woods and I drove by Qwari hill heading for the Eastern side of the marsh. It’s
a combination of the Kalahari Apple leaf bushes, and terminalia trees and
grasses of different sorts. It wasn’t that much to enjoy until we came across another
predator sighting; another leopard.
It was gently
resting not too far from the road and it had a full tummy from the night’s
hunts.
What a drive!
After a few minutes we were rolling the big wheels again.
Just about less
than fifteen minutes later the third leopard of the day was in sight and I
heard one of the guests say; “ not another leopard”. This leopard was not at
ease. It kept on looking in one direction and really was sort of scared. I
didn’t care what it was really because the cameras behind me enjoy every bit of
the show. After a while I decided to left up my binoculars towards the same
direction where this leopard was looking and that’s when I realized what it was
that the leopard was looking at with such a worry.
It was very good
reason for a lactating mother leopard and she was hiding her cub somewhere. And
revealing where the cub was not something that she was willing to do yet, not
when these two Wild dogs were in such close proximity. After staying with the
leopard we went to say hello to the dogs. They seemed not to know about the
leopard nearby and the impalas had started giving alarm calls in the bushes,
one big male impala ‘s intention was to kept the enemy in sight and listening
to all noise from all directions so that he knew where to drive his herd.
We could see the
panic in his eyes and he kept on snorting all the times. After watching the two
Wild dogs we drove towards pot-holes and stopped at a stretch point for tea and
coffee.
After tea, we
drove a little distance and turned back to slowly head back to camp. When we
got to where we left the leopard, we only saw tracks and we followed. She
suddenly came from the tree and walked in front of us along the road which was
heading towards the marsh. Approximately five minutes later the young cub
sprang out of the bushes and started playing with the mother. There were
several sighs from behind me, the guests were wondering if the cub was eaten by
the dogs. We were relieved and one of the guests broke into tears; she was very
worried.
I was having
goose bumps and I couldn’t believe that this was happening at all. After a
little while they disappeared into the bushes and we crossed to the western
side of the marsh. It was another predator day in Savuti. Brunch was delicious
and the story was about the mother leopard and her cub. While we were having
brunch, a herd of Roan antelopes came to take a drink in front of camp. The
Savuti area never ceases to amaze me with its wildlife wonders. Every day is
completely different and truly unique from another.
The afternoon
drive was very easy we started with the porcupine kill and the leopard was deep
into bushes of the woolly caper-bush trees below and we heard noises like the
leopard was vomiting. Ha ha ha who wouldn’t from such a meal really, we headed
off to the wild dogs at Harvey’s Pans and this time they were starting to get
into the open. “Perfect timing”, one of the guest acclaimed.
Indeed it was.
Some of the
members of the pack of twenty one found something on the ground which they
started sniffing on and I didn’t know what it was until I saw what they did
next. The rolled on it. It was a dung of wild dog prey, probably a small
antelope.
The hunting
Behavior:
Normally when
they come across fresh dung, they roll on it to disguise their own scent in
cane they come across prey and their up wind. This is done so that their quarry
does not smell them but rather think it’s an animal of their own species. Later
they drifted off towards giraffes which were watching with great suspicion.
The dogs wouldn’t
go for them until we realized that there was more to it. Very young giraffes,
about three of them; they were more of what they canines were interested in.
Giraffes
galloped away and the wild dogs followed pursued them with great intentions
leaving us wondering whether they were going to successful or not. After here
we were more into birds and we were getting closer to finding a good spot to
watch the sunset and enjoy our gin and tonics, wines and bush snacks.
We came across
the magnificent of them all. The Martial Eagle is the strongest of the birds of
prey capable of lifting a fully grown Steenbok into the air without a problem.
It was up an acacia tree looking at us with big round yellow wide eyes, the
pupil were pierced like needle points; no doubt, those eyes saw us while we
were a long distance away. After a good while of watching we headed to our
sun-down spot. Here, we enjoy the day much more as we watched the comeback of
the Red-billed Quelea birds as they flew over small bushes in the horizon,
forming an unbelievable and unforgettable scene of all aviations. These little
birds are not here all the time, they come here at the end of the rainy season
because the seeds from grasses are ripe and fallen off. The main two reasons
for these visitors are breeding grounds and availability of food.
After having our
nice drinks coupled by the spectacular show of the red-billed quelea birds we
headed off to camp slowly and surely. As we were about three minutes from camp
Chillo the young leopard was by the road side, looked like he just woke from
his day dreams and wondering where his hunt was going to start from.
Three minutes
from camp! You bet we stayed with this young fellow until it was almost dinner
time. Actually we could have stayed longer, we kept on been interrupted our
rumbling stomach; it was time for “eating safari”; chillo had to do something
about his hunger too. We waved goodbye and we pulled into camp. There was
nothing to talk about at dinner; normally, you would have questions like how
many lions and leopards are there in the area but it seemed many questions were
answered. After dinner we were watching stars; most of the constellations of
the southern sky were very visible though the moonlight was stronger but we
survived it.
This was a safari
like no other, SKL Savuti at its second best; believe me the first best of SKL
Savuti can double all that I said to my guests and it’s true. Let’s go out
there and see what this area can provide.